the younger man takes over the household restaurant

posted on 08/14/2022 07:00

(credit score: Sibele Negromonte / CB / DAPress)

Romão Gomes de Olinda Filho solely gained his father’s belief to salt his personal dried meat when he was 18. And this solely occurred as a result of he has “labored” at Olinda Comida Nordestina since he was 7 years previous. Now 28, the boy manages the kitchen of the standard restaurant, opened by Romão Olinda, the patriarch, in 1987, in Taguatinga.

Extra: Romão Filho has expanded the menu, restricted to dried meat. “North-eastern delicacies is simply too wealthy to serve only one dish,” justifies the younger man. Initially they added the baião de dois, in two variations, conventional and creamy, and the escondidinho de carne.

The novelty, nonetheless, should not cease there. Quickly, Romão intends to supply different dishes, akin to sarapatel, chambaril, buchada, rubacão and goat backbone. To do that, the prepare dinner recalled household recipes, researched and experimented till the proper taste was achieved.

Son from the north-east – his father is from Serra Negra, in Rio Grande do Norte, and his mom, from Ceará -, Romão Filho, his brother and his sister grew up round wealthy tables, all the time stuffed with delicacies typical of the area. “I can nonetheless style goat backbone and rubacão, made with crimson rice cooked in milk cream, black-eyed peas, grated dried meat and coalho cheese,” remembers the Brazilian.

A pioneer, Romão Senior adopted the trail of a number of brothers and left Serra Negra looking for a greater life. “We now have uncles scattered throughout Brazil,” says Romão Filho. He got here to Brasilia to work on the development of the Congress constructing. He ended up getting work within the canteen of the Senate building website. “That is the place the love of meals got here from,” says the son.

Romão’s brother, who additionally labored within the canteen, in 1981 opened a restaurant in Taguatinga, Gibão, which continues to be a benchmark on the subject of dried meat, and invited him to work collectively. After some collaboration, Romão determined to discovered his personal home, additionally in Taguatinga. Thus, Olinda was born in 1987.

The patriarch and his spouse, Socorro Olinda, have devoted themselves physique and soul to the enterprise, which has borne fruit: the Romão restaurant, additionally specializing in dried meat, in Vicente Pires. And that is how Romão Filho ended up taking an curiosity within the household enterprise as effectively. “If I needed to see my father I needed to go to a restaurant, as a result of he lived there. My first recollections with him are right here, enjoying dominoes, playing cards and, in fact, within the kitchen,” he says.

Love for north-eastern delicacies

Of the three brothers, solely he was involved in cooking pots. A lot in order that, having entered the varsity of economics, he deserted the course and enrolled within the gastronomy course. It was round this time that Romão Filho determined to spend a season in São Paulo, attending to know eating places that, like his household’s, had a north-eastern really feel. It was throughout these wanderings that he met the award-winning chef Rodrigo Oliveira, from Mocotó. “He has an analogous story to mine, the son of northeastern mother and father who left Sertão and a lifetime of deprivation to hunt a greater future”.

The Brasilia native says he realized loads from Rodrigo Oliveira. “He Has peasant origins, however his eyes are on the world. However I nonetheless should eat a number of flour to rise up,” he laughs. One other chef who has turn out to be a degree of reference for Romão Filho was Onildo Rocha, from Paraíba, proprietor of the award-winning restaurant Cozinha Roccia, positioned in João Pessoa.

When he took over Olinda’s kitchen, the younger man was regularly making some adjustments. He began with the minimize used to arrange dried meat. “I began utilizing the lizard with the laborious rump. Our meat is salted with fantastic salt for 3 days. First we clear the piece and put it within the salt with the fats dealing with upwards; within the second we take away the water that’s form and overturn., pack and retailer “, particulars.

The addition of the opposite northeastern dishes to the menu was alleged to occur in 2020, however the pandemic arrived and the plans needed to be postponed. Confronted with the well being disaster and the lockdown, Olinda has invested closely in supply. “We had been fortunate as a result of sun-dried meat is a product that matches very effectively into the supply service. We had been capable of ship 3,500 deliveries a month on the peak of the pandemic.”

With steady experiments so as to add new recipes, Romão Filho earns his father’s belief and approval on daily basis to run the enterprise, making an allowance for custom, however with an eye fixed to the long run.

flesh pores and skin

Escondidinhos at the Olinda restaurant in Taguatinga
Escondidinhos on the Olinda restaurant in Taguatinga
(photograph: Olinda Restaurant / Disclosure)

elements for puree
1 kg of cassava
100 g of butter
200 ml of milk
100 ml of bitter cream
Salt to style

Learn how to put together the puree
Cook dinner the cassava in water with just a little salt till it turns into delicate. Then drain and go away to chill. Go the cassava within the meals processor or puree. Put a pan on the range and add the butter.
and cassava. Combine every little thing, regularly incorporating the milk and cream. When it’s scorching,
work the puree with a mixer till it’s clean and glossy. End by hitting the salt.

elements for the filling
500 g of meat of your alternative (minced or diced)
onion to style
garlic to style
50 g of butter
Chili pepper to style
Salt to style
chives to style

Learn how to put together the filling
Fry the meat in butter. When it begins to brown, add the garlic and prepare dinner for a couple of moments. Then add the onion, salt and pepper. Depart to prepare dinner for a couple of minutes. Deglaze the pan with just a little water or meat broth. Add some chives and put aside.

plate ending
Throughout meeting, press the puree firmly towards the filling to get rid of the air between the 2 elements. Should you want, you possibly can add the mozzarella on high and bake till the cheese has melted.


Instagram: @olindacomidanordestina

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